Balkans Day 7, 14 September – Time To Think About Pastures New

I decided that I should purchase my coach ticket to Mostar. It was going to be an early start tomorrow so it was best to prepare. It was another scorching day so it gave me the perfect excuse to walk into town.

What I like about Dubrovnik is the quietness. There was hardly a soul about but it did not bothered me. The walk to the coach station took me past the cruise ship port. Until you see one for real you do not realise the size of them. It is the cruise ships that keep Dubrovnik going.

Cruise ship making its way to port.

I purchased my coach ticket to Mostar and made my way back to the hostel. I wanted to avoid the old town on Saturday afternoon. It was full of the cruise ship crowd. So I decided to venture out of town in the other direction. Again I was away from the crowds. This was going to be a quiet day. Tomorrow was going to be an early start. It felt good to be away from the bustle of the old town. The further I walked the quieter everything became. This was the first time in a week that I could gather my thoughts.

Eventually I turned back and returned to the old town. As it was quieter than first thought I decided to take in some of the sights. Firstly I went inside an art gallery and museum. The gallery was nothing spectacular. Dedicated to a local artist it was more of a shop than gallery. More interesting was the exhibition that was dedicated to replicas of documents charting the history of Dubrovnik.

Next up was War Photo Limted. It was a photography exhibition. Not just dedicated to the conflict of 20 years ago, there were also photos from conflicts in Africa and Asia. It was thought provoking and it was the first time that I had been reminded of the conflict.

My final museum was the Memorial Room of the Defenders of Dubrovnik. While it was small I found it to be moving and humbling. I saw photos of those who died while defending the city. While reading the signs it became clear from the language used that it will take a long time before there will be any forgiveness.

Looking at the photos of the city after the siege and then walking out into the plaza you would not be able to tell that anything happened. This maybe the biggest tribute I can give the city.

As the sun started to go down I made my way up to the Church of St. Ignatius of Loyola. As I climbed the steps I could hear the sound of bagpipes. They get everywhere. As I reached the top I could see a wedding party coming out of the church. The men looked stylish and the women beautiful, not that I know anything about fashion. As I made my way back down I could hear singing and music. More guests were arriving for the celebrations. It was a beautiful sight to see. It is not something I would see in the UK. This is why I travel. Tomorrow Mostar beckons.

Ticket to Ride

Until the next post stay safe, stay healthy and keep smiling.

Steve

 

Vienna Card – A Review

Like all major cities Vienna offers a discount card to all visitors to help the budget conscious traveller. The Vienna Card costs €19.90. It lasts for 72 hours and it entitles you to more than 200 discounts across the city.

The major discount would be the free travel on public transport for the 72 hour period. You are also entitled to discounts on major museums and attractions such as the Hofburg and Schonbrunn Palace. However, the discount is only between 10-20%. You also receive discounts for restaurants and shopping up to 20%.

The problem with the Vienna Card is that to get value out of it you will have to cram a lot in the 72 hours. Especially with the museums. You could end up running through and not really appreciating the exhibits. This could lead to a case of museum fatigue. Personally I like to take my time when visiting museums and art galleries to take everything in. Also most museums and galleries are only open from 9-5.

To get the most out of the card I suggest that you carefully plan your 72 hours and stick to that plan. Otherwise if you want to take your time and visit the occasional museum but still want to take advantage of free travel then I would recommend that you purchase a 72 hour public transport ticket. This currently costs €14.50.

In short I felt that the Vienna Card will represent value with planning but it may not suit everybody including myself.

Until the next post stay safe, stay healthy and keep smiling.

Steve

 

Schönbrunn Palace – Vienna

The Schönbrunn Palace is one of the most visited attractions in Vienna.  In 2011 it attracted over 2½ million visitors. Schönbrunn literally means ‘beautiful spring’. The palace was the summer residence of the Habsburgs.

Schönbrunn Palace
Schönbrunn Palace

My visit took place in March but I could why it is so popular. There were plenty of visitors from all around the world. Visiting on a Sunday meant it felt full and there was some queuing involved. A visit to the Schönbrunn consists of two areas. The palace itself and the gardens.

The Entrance to the Palace.
The Entrance to the Palace.

When touring the palace be aware that you may be hearing the information through the audio guide as you heard in the Imperial Apartments at the Hofburg. Also you are unable to take any photographs. In fact you are not allowed to take any bags into the palace. The tour itself was fascinating and there were some interesting exhibits. However, I felt it do not last too long and was value for money.

My mood changed when I went into the gardens.  This is the real attraction of the Schönbrunn. Despite it being March and weather was a little chilly the gardens looked magnificent. I must have spent at least three exploring.  There were paths leading off to the zoo and woods.  When you climb the hill towards the Gloriette you are treated to splendid views. I found myself taking plenty of photographs.

View of Schönbrunn from the Gloriette
View of Schönbrunn from the Gloriette
The Gardens
The Gardens

I made my way up to the Gloriette. Maybe it is just me but I was disappointed to see it used as a cafe.

The Gloriette
The Gloriette

Overall, I enjoyed my visit to the Schönbrunn Palace, especially the gardens. Sure they would look better in the summer but I feel that it could be too crowded to enjoy. I was glad that I visited in March.

Schönbrunn Palace, Schönbrunner Schloßstraße 47, 1130 Vienna

http://www.schoenbrunn.at/en

Nearest U-bahn station – Schönnbrunn

Classic Pass Plus €21.50 (€19.70 with Vienna Card)

Classic Pass €18.50 (€16.70 with Vienna Card)

Until the next post stay safe, stay healthy and keep smiling.

Steve

Hofburg Palace Museums, Vienna

The Hofburg Palace was once home to the Habsburg Family who ruled the Austro-Hungarian Empire. It is now home to the President of Austria.

The reason for my visit was to look was the chance to see the three museums that are located inside.  They are ‘The Imperial Silver Collection”, Sisi Museum and “Imperial Apartments.”

Before entering I would recommend that you take a walk around the building. Whatever the weather or time of day it is a magnificent structure to view. Sadly my photographs does not do it any justice.

Hofburg Palace
Hofburg Palace
The Hofburg at Night
The Hofburg at Night

Imperial Silver Collection

This is home to a collection of dining services, glassware and silverware. There are certainly impressive collections of china that have been accumulated from around the world. I suspect that a lot of the pieces were used only sparingly. The most impressive exhibit must be the ‘Milan Centrepiece,’ It stands at thirty metres long. There is also the Grand Vermeil Service which could serve up to 140 people at one sitting. The collection is a perfect opportunity to take photographs as you marvel at the opulence of the Habsburgs.

Milan Centrepiece
Milan Centrepiece
Grand Vermeil Service
Grand Vermeil Service
Impressive piece of china
Impressive piece of china

Sisi Museum

Next up is the Sisi Museum. This is dedicated to the Empress Elisabeth who is a revered figure in Austria. This may be down to the tragic way here life ended. The museum revolves around Sisi’s private life and contains plenty of personal artefacts belonging to her. Sadly, you are unable to photograph any of the exhibits.

What the Sisi Museum does well is that it is not a shrine to the Empress but will point out all her flaws. The impression that I was left of her was that she was a vain selfish person towards the end of her life who neglected her husband and country while she went off on her travels. I suppose the nearest person who I compare her with is Princess Diana.

The Imperial Apartments

The final museum to visit is the Imperial Apartments. These were the private apartments of the Habsburgs. It is the chance to see the offices, private quarters and bedrooms. Like the Sisi Museum you are unable to take any photographs.

I found the museums to be of good value especially if you hold a Vienna Card. You will get a discount of between 7-9% off the normal admission charge. It is the perfect opportunity to surround yourself in the decadence of the Habsburgs.

Hofburg Vienna, Michaelerkuppel, 1010 Vienna.

Nearest U-bahn stop – Herrengasse U3 line (Orange)

Opening Hours 09:00-17:30 (September – June), 09:00-18:00 (July – August)

Admission with audio guide €11.50, with Vienna Card €10.50

Until the next post stay safe, stay healthy and keep smiling.

Steve

City Walks: London – Hoxton

You may remember that I was going to carry out 50 city walks of London. This was based on the walks put together by Craig Taylor. Last October I managed to complete the Greenwich walk. Due to Christmas and my recent trip away I had been unable to complete another walk until now.

This walk was around Hoxton which is in the borough of Hackney. I started from Old Street tube station made my way down Old Street until a left turn took me into Rufus Street. This took me to Hoxton Square. It is an area that is home to art galleries and bars. The area gave off that arty vibe. The square itself is typical of the squares that are dotted around London. Somewhere to escape from the bustle of Old Street.

Drinking Fountain in Hoxton Square
Drinking Fountain in Hoxton Square

After returning to Old Street I carried on down until I reached Kingsland Street. This took me into the Shoreditch district of London. I made my way up the street until I reached the Geffrye Museum. Free to enter the museum traces the history of domestic living rooms dating from the 17th century until the modern-day. It is popular with families and there is plenty for children to do. Looking at the website it encourages educational visits.

The Geffrye Museum
The Geffrye Museum
18th Century Parlour Room from Geffrye Museum.
18th Century Parlour Room from Geffrye Museum.

I was lucky that the Herb Garden had reopened for the summer. The weather was good and it did remind me that spring was making its way after the long winter months.

The Herb Garden
The Herb Garden

While walking up Kingsland Road I passed St. Leonard’s Hospital. There is a brown plague dedicated to Edith Cavell. She was a nurse at the hospital. She is famous for being executed in World War One.

To complete my walk I made my way back down Kingsland Road looking for somewhere to eat. There were plenty of Vietnamese restaurants but I did not fancy anything too spicy. I did come across an establishment that looked like an American Diner. The Love Shake calls itself a media cafe and seats 35 people. It must because it offers free wi-fi. Always a plus in my eyes. I decided to order a hot dog with fries and a chocolate milk shake. On their website it states that milkshakes are made with either organic or soya milk. It tasted delicious. Somewhere I would definitely recommend it to you. It was a great way to end the walk.

An American Classic
An American Classic

The Geffrye Museum, 136 Kingsland Road, London E2 8EA. http://www.geffrye-museum.org.uk

The Love Shake Cafe Lounge, 5 Kingsland Road, London E2 8AA. http://www.theloveshake.com

Until the next post stay safe, stay healthy and keep smiling.

Steve

Photo of the Week – Herb Garden, Geffrye Museum

This week’s photo is of the herb garden at the Geffrye Museum in Shoreditch, London.

Herb Garden
Herb Garden

I was there on Tuesday.  While the weather was cold the sun was shining.  It is a sign that Spring is on its way.

Until the next post stay safe, stay healthy and keep smiling.

Steve

Vienna & Budapest – Day 6, 11 March 2013

I spent rather a comfortable first night in my hostel.  I also enjoyed another filling breakfast.  By the time I got ready for the day I had made up my mind on what I planned to do.  When checking in I noticed the free walking tour.  It is something I always take advantage of as a solo traveller it is a good way of meeting people.

It was a beautiful day, a chance not to wear a coat.  I made the slow walk towards the meeting point in Vörösmarty Square.  As usual I arrived way too early.  While waiting for the tour group to come together I was approached by a man who wanted to sell me a I-Phone.  Noticing that he was holding the box I politely decline.  I suspect there was nothing inside the box.

P1000497

As I registered myself with the group I met a couple of girls.  One Brazilian, the other Canadian who were happening be studying in Brighton.  We were getting along well.  The tour started with a brief history of Hungary.  With its recent poor record in choosing sides in 20th century wars I figure it has been unlucky.  We started off in Pest passing St. Stephen Basilica before crossing Szechenyi Chain Bridge into Buda climbing Castle Hill towards the Royal Palace.

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The tour ended at the Mathias Church Fisherman’s Bastion.  We were recommended a restaurant that we should try for some lunch.  By this time several more people had joined us.  Bree from San Francisco who was studying in Paris, Marion from Paris, Ceylan from Istanbul who is studying medicine in Poland and Martin from Poland.  I chose a pork and potato dish with red cabbage washed down with a bottle of local beer.  An enjoyable way to spend a couple of hours.

IMG_0532

After lunch we may our way to the National Gallery.  Myself, Ceylan and Marion decided to go inside.  Not before agreeing with everybody else that we should meet up later in the evening at the Szimpla Kert ruin bar.

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After leaving the National Gallery we made our way back towards Pest and our hostel.  It was the slow route going first via the Parliament building.  Marion commented that it looked like the Houses of Parliament in London.  I had to agree.  Carrying on further into the city I noticed a statue of Imre Nagy, the Prime Minister of Hungary during the 1956 Uprising.  He is looking towards the Parliament building.  It was a moving site to see.

P1000587

Going further we all agreed that we needed to drink coffee and ended up at the Hutte Cafe Bar.  It was unusual that it was housed inside an inflatable building.  Probably explains why the coffee was so expensive.

After arriving back at the hostel we agreed that we should go for something to eat before going to the Szimpla Bar.  We ended up in a restaurant called “Frici Papa”.  It served traditional Hungarian fare.  I chose the Beef Goulash.  When in Hungary as they say.

After the meal we met up with everybody else at the Szimpla Bar.  It is known as a ruin bar because it is housed in an old building that has seen better days.  It is a bar containing different floors that played music or you could go to rooms to escape and chat.  Martin met up with a friend he knew called Kasia a French girl and another person from Slovakia.  It was a great evening even if I was starting to feel tired.  It must be my old age.  Ceylan and Marion agreed that we should all meet up for breakfast in the morning.

Until the next post stay safe, stay healthy and keep smiling.

Steve

Vienna & Budapest – Day 5, 10 March 2013

My final day in Vienna and the batteries in my camera were starting to die.  As it was a Sunday I noticed that no supermarkets were open.  Being from the UK I found this unusual but I felt glad of this.  It is important that people have rest from work.  If the batteries give up I have the camera on my I-Phone as a backup.  So I was not unduly worried.

My clothes needed freshening up so before I ventured outside it was off to the laundry.  This gave me the opportunity to decide where next to visit.  In the end I chose to visit the Schonbrunn Palace (Schloss Schonbrunn).  According to Trip Advisor this is Austria’s most visited tourist attraction.  By the time I left the Schonbrunn U-Bahn station I could see why.  There were a lot of coaches parked and people queuing to get inside.  There appeared a lot of coach parties from Russia and Serbia.

Once inside the palace grounds you see how magnificent it all looked.  From the buildings to the gardens there is a majestic appearance that befits a royal palace.

P1000394

I started off inside the palace on the Grand Tour.  Like most museums in Vienna you are not allowed to take photographs.  In fact you have to all your bags and coats in the cloakroom at no charge.  You also get a free audio guide.  The tour itself was alright however, I do feel that some of the information given did repeat from the Hofberg.

After leaving the Palace I made my way towards the gardens and for me this was the highlight of the visit.  There are a few paths to walk to reach the end of the garden but once at the top you are rewarded with an impressive view of the city of Vienna.

P1000421

This was the perfect opportunity for everybody to ask to take photos of each other using their camera.  I must admit that I was nervous using better cameras than mine but everybody seemed happy with the results.  One Japanese man was so impressed with my photography he asked me twice to take a photo.  Making my way back down to the palace I walked through the woods.  I had to stop while I saw this man feeding a squirrel.  It was one of those moments where you had to stop and take a photo.

P1000441

By mid-afternoon I decided that I needed to leave and make my way towards the Voltsplatz and explore the area around parliament.  Also I was feeling hungary and I wanted to eat a Bratwurst.  In the end I just wanted to walk through the city centre back to my hostel.

Tomorrow I leave for Budapest.  It will be a new destination and I am looking forward to this.

Until the next post stay safe, stay healthy and keep smiling.

Steve

Vienna & Budapest – Day 3, 8 March 2013

That was a good night's sleep. Sometimes it is good just to unwind and relax. The all you can eat breakfast is a great way to start the day. In my own mind I know what I want to do today. The thing is not to rush about and try to fit everything in one day but go at a pace I can enjoy. Anything I miss I can always catch up at a later date.

First stop after purchasing my Vienna Card is St. Stephen's Cathedral. This time I am going inside. It is a spectacular building. Initially I walked around the outside section clicking away on the camera like it was going out of fashion. I do admit to clicking too much when it comes to photography. I decided that I might as well pay the full admission fee. This will give me access to the Catacombs and entrance to the North and South Tower.

I took the self guided tour with audio guide. I followed the map and everything seemed to be going well until I reached the chapel. As I was about to look inside I was I informed that it was about to close. A christening was about to take place. Obviously, there are some well heeled families in Vienna. So I moved on to complete the rest of the tour.

When I returned my audio guide back to the counter I was told if I was quick I would make the tour of the Catacombs. I was waiting for the tour to start. However, the guide was trying his best to persuade a homeless woman that she should not be sleeping in the cathedral. She was trying her best to ignore him. So eventually we set off on the tour. There was no photography allowed so I can only describe to you what I saw. First off we were shown the final resting places of the Archbishop's of Vienna. Then we were taken to see the coffins of old Emperors. Bizarrely there were numbered containers on shelves. Each container held the internal organs of the Austrian Royal Family. The organs were preserved in vinegar. We were taken further below the cathedral. It began to feel cold and damp. The guide said this was down to the recent snowfall in the city. We were shown rooms where the bones were stacked on top of one another. There were rooms where bones appeared scattered everywhere. Then like that the tour was over and I made my way back to the cathedral. To my horror everything was closed as a service was being conducted. I asked the attendant if I could come back later to use the rest of my ticket. He said yes so it was off to the Hofberg.

From the outside the white building was a perfect photo opportunity. It is a beautiful structure.

Using my Vienna Card to get a discount I first entered the building to see the Silver Collection. It is not just about silver, there are displays of porcelain tableware as well. I came away with the impression that some people had more money then they knew what to do with.

Next stop was the Sisi Museum. I found this place to be interesting. Empress Elizabeth (Sisi) is held in great affection. This affection came after her assassination. What is interesting was that during her lifetime she was disliked for the way she treated her husband the Emperor Franz Josef. My impression was that she was a vain and self-centred woman. I could not but compare her to Princess Diana.

The final part of the tour was the official apartments belonging to the Emperor and Empress. What was pleasing about the whole Hofberg experience was the free audio guide. It helped with the whole visit.

I thought I would then make my way back to St. Stephens Cathedral to use the rest of my ticket. Again it was closed for a service. Somethings were not meant to be.

Feeling worn out I thought it would be best that I cook myself something to eat tonight. Chicken Wraps should do the trick. I just felt that I may have cooked too much.

Until the next post stay safe, stay healthy and keep smiling.

Steve

 

Photo of the Week – Venus de Milo

This week’s photo is of the Venus de Milo which is displayed at the Louvre in Paris.

DSC00095v2

You can see that it is a popular attraction.  I have recently rediscovered a lot of photos from my trip to Paris taken in 2005.  Hopefully I will be sharing more with you.

Until the next post stay safe, stay healthy and keep smiling.

Steve

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