History – SteveWhittythoughts1965

December 10, 2013December 10, 2013

Balkans Day 8, 15 September – What a Pleasant Surprise

After one week on the road I was moving on to another country, Bosnia Herzegovina and the city of Mostar. It was an early start to the day and I tried my best not to wake anybody as I left the hostel. I think I succeeded in that regard.

The coach journey started by crossing into Bosnia and then back into Croatia before crossing again into Bosnia. I noticed that the signs were both in Latin and the Cyrillic alphabet. However, reminders of the war were evident as the Cyrillic signs were spray painted out. Eventually I arrived into Bosnia and the first thing that I noticed was the beautiful scenery. It was spectacular. Normally on a coach journey I would either read a book or catch up on some sleep. On this journey there was no chance of that as I was struck in awe.

Eventually I arrived into Mostar Bus Station. I needed the loo before I left for the hostel. The toilet had seen better days. Both urinals were broken and the main toilets were squat ones. I think I'll hold on until I get to the hostel.

The Hostel Madjas was something else. It felt more like somebody's home than being in a hostel. So much so I was told off for not taking off my shoes before entering the building.

After checking in I went off to explore the city. I was with Audrey an American who was also staying at the hostel. Audrey wanted to climb the minuet at the Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque. It did seem a good idea at the time. However, this view changed as I realised how unfit I had become. That was a hard climb. That said, the views were worth the effort. We could see the old bridge and we were lucky that somebody had decided to jump off.

Making our way across the bridge Audrey had agreed to meet up with a couple of Australians, Jonno and Claire. They were on an adventure of their own tomorrow by flying to Amman, Jordan via Istambul. Jonno pointed out a empty sheel of a building. Apparently this was used by Croatian snipers during the war. If this was the UK the building would have been closed off due to health and safety fears. Here, we were free to explore. The building is now used by the homeless, drunks and drug addicts but you could climb all the way to the top. You could see the used cartridges that were left. It was chilling to be able to pick them up. It all seemed surreal. Again at the top of the building you get great views of Mostar.

Moving on we crossed through a park. Here we came across a sight that only Eastern Europe could bring. A statue of Bruce Lee. Why is it there? Nobody could answer.

We were told about the abandoned Partisan war cemetery, so we made our way there. As we entered we were given some funny looks by the local population. There were no signs and it had all become overgrown. I felt sad as I came across the broken gravestones. It was clear that this cemetery has been allowed to fall in disrepair. These stones were Muslim and I was in the Croatian part of Mostar. A Croatian state was established by Hitler during WWII.

Back at the hostel I enjoyed my first Bosnian coffee. The ritual behind it was interesting. However, being left handed pouring became awkward. I met up with more travellers. They were from all over the world. Australians, Germans, Belgians and French. We all decided to go for a meal. In the evening Mostar becomes quiet. It felt that we were to only people there.

We ate at a restaurant called Hindin Han that served traditional Bosnian food. The food was delicious and proved to be of excellent value. The atmosphere was great as we were people who loved travelling. Swapping tales of the road was a great way to end the day.

Until the next post stay safe, stay healthy and keep smiling.

Steve

Posted with Blogsy

November 24, 2013November 24, 2013

Balkans Day 6, 13 September – Oh Sunny Day

I woke up this morning with my head feeling fuzzy. It was not an hangover but I had felt better. Also my tongue felt like it was itching. I wondered what I was going to do with myself for the day. With the hostel being underground it was hard to say what the weather was like. I needed not to worry as the weather was hot and sunny.

Breakfast was a pastry from the local bakery. It went down well as I made my way towards the old town. Neno the hostel owner told me that there were two things I should try while I was in Dubrovnik. Firstly, tour the city walls and then ride the cable car. Today I decided to try the city walls. I was not disappointed. Dubrovnik old town is beautiful. My finger never left the camera shutter button. At 90kn the tour lasted two hours. Also I walked the city walls early in the morning and I managed to avoid the cruise ship crowds.

For those of you who are looking to visit Dubrovnik my advise to you is to avoid the old town between the hours of 12-4pm. You cannot move for the cruise ship crowd. They were like sheep being herded by the dogs (tour guides). One aspect of Dubrovnik that disappointed me was the lack of signs for places of interest. There were plenty for the restaurants. My remedy to avoid the crowds was laundry. It was long overdue.

The laundrette was self service to the point that nobody was there. I seemed to be doing alright until I leant back and broke the chair. Oops, I hope there were no cameras to witness this.

Once back at the hostel I was not sure what to do. Eating out was not an option as it would put a dent into my budget. So homemade sandwiches it was with potato chips and fruit. It filled me up for the evening. I met a guy from Yorkshire, England who had just arrived from Mostar. He told me that I would love it. This was giving me something to look forward to. Kelly, a girl from Belguim suggested that we should go out for the evening and get some ice cream. It sounded a good idea to me. There is always room for ice cream even late in the evening. This was also a chance to console a Canadian girl who had just arrived into Dubrovnik. Sadly, her luggage had not, the worst fear for any traveller.

I felt that this was the best time to visit the old time. It was September and the season was starting to wind down. We were sitting on the steps of the cathedral enjoying our ice cream. We noticed a couple of guys taking photos. They had the full equipment including tripods. The wives/partners were with them and they looked fed up while their other halves were trying to shoot the perfect shot. I suppose it is better than using a iPad as a camera. That would lead me to a different subject altogether.

Until the next post stay safe, stay healthy and keep smiling.

Steve

Posted with Blogsy

November 4, 2013November 4, 2013

Balkans Day 2, 9 September – My Feet Are Not Touching The Ground

The coach pulled into Victoria Coach Station at around 1am. It was only an hour and ten minutes late. Still meant that I had missed my connecting coach to Gatwick Airport. There was another coach due to leave at 1:30. The driver said there was plenty of room but I had to get my ticket changed first. This was done easy enough and soon I was on my way to the airport. As much as I tried to get some sleep I was feeling too excited to settle down.

Arriving into the airport gave me the first chance to relax. Maybe arriving an hour later was a blessing in disguise as I spent less time waiting around in Gatwick. After drinking a cup of coffee to help keep me awake I checked in my rucksack. Typically it was classed as oversized. Time to wait for a member of staff to come and take it off me. After getting through check-in I was fighting to keep myself awake while I waited to board the flight. It was 4:00 and the duty free shops were opening. What a time to start work.

The flight to Split went smoothly. I must admit to not being one of the world's greatest flyers. Flew by Easyjet and it was not too bad considering it was my first experience with them. After collecting my rucksack Josko from the Split Guesthouse was there to take me to the hostel. Talking to him gave me the impression that he seemed a decent person bad I was going to enjoy my stay at the hostel.

Upon arriving Josko went out of his way to introduce me to everybody in the hostel. After a quick shower and change of clothes I was ready to hit the town. Charles from Canada suggested that I could tag along with him, Pavel, Manfred and Jeanette. Manfred was going home later that day so we wandered into the old town.

It was busy as it was lunchtime so we decided to climb the Bell Tower of St. Domnius. A tight climb but once at the top you are rewarded with excellent views of the city and harbour. Walking along the waterfront with Manfred we were stopped by reporters from RTL. They asked Manfred for his thoughts on Split. I was waiting for my turn but alas they ignored me. Another bid for stardom thwarted.

One of the many splendid views of Split.

Walking back towards the hostel it was suggested that we should hire bicycles for the afternoon. Somehow I agreed it was a good idea. So I paid 40kn for four hours. I had forgotten that I had not ridden a bike in over ten years. Yes, it is true you never forget how to ride one. Good job we were going downhill and the roads were quiet. Soon we were at the beach. A large beer was called for. Maybe this was not the greatest idea as I had not eaten since 1am. I was surprised that I could keep control of the bike.

Manfred suffered a problem when the chain on his bike snapped. Manfred, Charles and Pavel were looking for a cliff to jump off. There were plenty of them, the problem was how to climb back up. Manfred took his bike back while the rest of us went to find somewhere to eat. Josko had recommended the Fife as a popular and cheap place to eat. I ordered a local variation of Bangers and Mash. It tastes excellent and it had been well earnt.

The afternoon had been great fun but it was soon time to return the bikes. One tip when hiring a bicycle, make sure you know your route back. We ended up having carry the bikes up a load of stairs.

Back at the hostel Josko treated everybody with a bottle of Absolute Vodka to share amongst us. Joined by a Australian and Welsh couple we were enjoying the vodka along with some beer. At 11pm it was decided we would venture into the old town to find some bars. It was a enjoyable night. The bars themselves were only a small room but the atmosphere was perfect. Even though I started to flag a little towards the end, it had been a great first day of my trip. Hopefully, the shape of things to come.

Until the next post stay safe, stay healthy and keep smiling.

Steve

Posted with Blogsy

July 29, 2013July 29, 2013

The Royal Baby and the World

Well, this has been an extraordinary week by the standards of the UK. Sporting success in the form of the England cricket team trashing the Aussies and Chris Froom winning the Tour de France. However, it is fair to say the only story in the UK has been the birth of the royal baby. You would have thought that nobody else had given birth given the news coverage.

I come to this post as somebody who is really not too bothered about the Royal Family. After all, I suspect they are not too bothered about me. It is the reaction of the rest of the world that interests me.

I received the news of the royal birth while on my way home from work. When I switched on the TV I would have expected that the BBC, ITV and Sky to be over the story like a rash. It was when I started to watch the other news networks that I got the biggest surprise.

CNN were broadcasting from outside Buckingham Palace. It seemed surreal to see Christiane Amanpour conducting interviews as though it was gossip. She was born in London so I could forgive her for that. I switched to France 24 and they had wall to wall coverage. Talk about forgotten history. We have always had a love hate relationship. Turning over to the next channel Japan's NHK World and it had the royal baby, the same with Euronews. It was only when I switched to Al Jazeera that I found a station that was broadcasting other news.

I feel this says a lot about the UK and how it is seen by the rest of the world. London is a hub for visitors from around the world and the royal family with all its history, glamour and tradition is the magnet that draws them over. Those visitors who were in London last week will have had an experience never to be forgotten. This is why the birth of Prince George of Cambridge made news around the world and mattered to a lot of people.

Until the next post stay safe, stay healthy and keep smiling.

Steve

Posted with Blogsy

July 21, 2013July 21, 2013

London Walks – Spitalfields

This post is another based on the City Walks series by Craig Taylor. This walk took me around Spitalfields in the East End.

The walk started from Liverpool Street station. This was convenient as my previous walk from Old Street had finished there. Making my way up Bishopsgate I soon found my way up to Spital Square. From there I turned into Felgate Street and then into Commercial Street. I stopped to look inside Spitalfields. This is one of the oldest markets in London. It is very popular at weekends. There are plenty of traders selling all sorts of goods ranging from clothing to furniture. It is also a good place to come and have a spot to eat. Like a lot of markets in London you can eat the world.

Once out of the market you go past 'The Ten Bells' pub. You are now in Jack the Ripper terrority as two of his victims spent their last hours drinking in the pub. Turning left and then another right at Princelet Street I found myself in Brick Lane.

Historically Brick Lane has been home to immigrants who arrived into London. Particularly the Huguenots, Jewish and Bangladeshi communities. This is reflected with the amount of curry houses to be found here. On a previous visit I eat at the City Spice restaurant. It was delicious and you are spoilt for choice. I would also recommend a visit to the Beigel Bake. Open 24 hours a day it offers the best bagels that I ever eaten. The queues would back me up on that. Again being the weekend Brick Lane was packed with visitors enjoying the food stores and market traders. One tip I would have for you, make sure you have enough cash on you as I could not see many ATM's and the one I saw charged for using it. Also I found that the food on Brick Lane was more expensive that at Spitalfields market.

I carried up Brick Lane until I reached Osborn Street. Turning left took me into Whitechapel High Street and the Whitechapel Gallery. This is home to displays of modern art. Sadly, my visit coincided with work being done while they install new exhibits. Still it was free and I was grateful to get out of the hot sun for 30 minutes.

After leaving the gallery I turned into Gunthorpe Street. Another right turn took me into Middlesex Street. This is home to Petticoat Market. I would have say it was packed with shoppers looking for a bargain. Progress was slow and I would say be mindful of your belongings. Once out of Middlesex Street I was back on Bishopsgate and the walk finished back at Liverpool Street Station.

Until the next post stay safe, stay healthy and keep smiling.

Steve

Posted with Blogsy

June 16, 2013June 16, 2013

House of Terror – Budapest

The House of Terror (Terror Haza) is one of those places you wish you did not have to visit. However, to get an understanding of Budapest in the twentieth century it is important that you go.

The museum is housed in the building that was used by both the Hungarian Cross Party (the Hungarian Nazis) and the secret police of the communists, the AVO and AVH. The irony being that the building itself is on one of the most beautiful streets in Budapest.

You know that you have reached the building when you see the platform on top. It has the word terror stamped into it along with the symbols of the Arrow Cross Party and the Communists.

As I waited to enter the building I noticed the photos on the side. I thought it was curious until I noticed the photo of Imre Nagy. It was then that I realised these people who had been tortured and executed in the building.

Once inside the building you take the elevator up to the second floor. The museum starts with the period around World War 2 and the Hungarian Cross Party. As you move through the rooms you see the fall of the Cross Party and the rise of the Communists.

Each room exhibits are well detailed with lots to see and read. There is also a A4 sheet that you can take that gives a detailed breakdown of what happened at the time. What I liked about the museum was the way it showed how everyday Hungarian life was affected especially during the rule of the Communists.

You make your way down from the second floor to the first floor. At the end of the first floor you wait for the elevator to take you down to the basement.

This is the slowest elevator ride you will ever take. As you go down a video is played to you. It is a former guard describing the process of taking a prisoner to execution. When the elevator stops you are in the basement. It contains the rooms of torture as well as the cells. Immediately I felt very cold. There is no other way to describe the floor but bleak. Inside each cell you can see photos of people who were held there.

Finally, you reach a small room. This contains the scaffold used for executing prisoners.

For a swift execution you needed to rely on the strength of the hangman. I could only think of the suffering as the prisoners were strangled.

You slowly make your way back up to the ground floor passing some old Soviet style statues.

The one memory I have from my visit to the House of Terror is the silence. Nobody felt like talking to each other. Sitting in a nearby coffee house I could only be thankful that I had gained an understanding of what happened in Hungary and that it should never be repeated. As Attila Jozsef is quoted in the leaflet “The past must be acknowledged.”

House of Terror, Andrassy utca 60, Budapest.

http://www.houseoft error.hu

Until the next post stay safe, stay healthy and keep smiling.

Steve

Posted with Blogsy

May 19, 2013

The Royal Palace – Budapest

Let me start with one piece of advice. It is one hell of a walk to the Royal Palace. Sensible footwear is in order. The Royal Palace was the home to the Kings of Hungary. It is part of the Buda World Heritage Site.

Inside the Royal Palace complex there is the Hungarian National Gallery and the Budapest History Museum.

From the Royal Palace you get amazing views across the Danube into Pest.

I would recommend a visit to the Royal Palace. It is a great way to spend an afternoon whatever the weather.

Until the next post stay safe, stay healthy and keep smiling.

Steve

May 14, 2013

Free Walking Tours – Budapest

After arriving in Budapest I was at a loss on deciding what to do on my first full day. I noticed that there was a flyer for 'Free Walking Tours.' Always taking advantage of anything that is free I looked to find my way to the meeting point at Vorosmarty Square. It seem at one point I would be the only person there. However, before 10:30 a lot more people turned up.

The tour was due to last 2.5 hours. The first 30 minutes seemed wrapped up in telling the history of Hungary. Fascinating it is but my bum was starting to feel numb sitting on the steps. Eventually we set off and soon we were bombarded with the sights and stories attached to them.

The tour itself took in the highlights of Buda and Pest. Crossing the Danube and making our way up Castle Hill. The guide was excellent telling stories as we made our way. A lot of these stories were funny and made the walk go a lot quicker. The tour ended up finishing past the Castle in Buda. We were more than happy to tip the guide. She recommend a fine restaurant to have lunch.

Free Walking Tours in Budapest offer four tours. The original morning walking tour, the afternoon tour, the Communism walk and the Jewish walk. All are free with just a tip to be paid out to the guide. It is part of the United Europe Free Tours Group. They also operate free walking tours in Berlin, Prague, Bratislava, Sofia, Ljubljana, Kiev and Bucharest.

As a solo traveller I enjoy walking tours. It is a great way of meeting fellow travellers and also a great way of familiarising yourself with a new city.

Free Budapest Walking Tours Team – http://www.triptobudapest.hu

Until the next post stay safe, stay healthy and keep smiling.

Steve

Posted with Blogsy

May 12, 2013

Vienna – A Reflection

I am pleased to admit that my second visit to Vienna was more successful than my previous one. At least I avoided getting food poisoning and I also managed to get to see more of the city.

Vienna as a city has always held a fascination for me. I love history and art. The reason for my first visit was to see the ‘Madonna del Prato’ by Raphael. Sure enough I managed to get off my sick-bed to get to the Kunsthistorisches Museum. However, I left Vienna I felt that there was some unfinished business.

During the four days I spent in Vienna I managed to get to see the following:

St. Stephen's Cathedral — St. Stephen’s Cathedral

I felt that I managed to experience a lot more of what Vienna has to offer. Yet there was still more that I wanted to see.

Overall, I loved my time in Vienna with its history, sights and smells. It is a city while a capital city still felt small enough to explore by foot and getting yourself lost. To experience an authentic Viennese coffee shop was a joy or experiencing the busker playing the cello outside the Hofburg on a cold Saturday night. These are the memories that never go away.

Yes, Vienna can be expensive but with careful planning there are bargains out there. Sometimes the best experiences are free. Would I visit again? The simple answer is yes. If Vienna is good enough for me then it will be good enough for you.

Until the next post stay safe, stay healthy and keep smiling.

Steve

May 11, 2013May 11, 2013

FA Cup Final

This is a slightly different post than usual. It is about the FA Cup Final. One of the great sporting days in England, traditionally it was the last game of the football season thought this has changed over the last couple of years.

The FA Cup Final or Football Association Challenge Cup to give its full name is the oldest cup competition in world football. It was first played for in 1872 when Wanderers beat the Royal Engineers 1-0.

The competition begins in August when the amateur and semi-professional play qualifying rounds to make the main draw. The professional clubs from the Leagues 1and 2 tier join in the 1st round and the clubs from the Premier League and Championship join in the 3rd round. The magic of the FA Cup is that potentially clubs from the lower leagues can play clubs from the Premier League. There have been cases of giant-killing performances. This season Luton Town of the Conference beat Norwich City of the Premier League 1-0 at Norwich in the 4th Round.

Cup Final day has always been a magical day for me. Growing up it was one of the few games that was shown live on television. It was not just the match, there was the build up which lasted throughout the day until kick off. Particularly the singing of the Cup Final hymn 'Abide With Me'. A strange choice as it is normally sang at funerals. I always find it a emotional moment. I am not alone, just search You Tube for the effect it had on Elton John.

Another piece of magic about the cup is that you are never certain who would win. I have witnessed some acts of giant-killing. Here are two that I would like to mention.

1973 – Sunderland beating Leeds United 1-0. Sunderland were at that time a second division club and Leeds were the biggest club in the country. I can still hear that magic piece of commentary, “Porterfield, 1-0.”

1988 – Wimbledon beating Liverpool 1-0. “The Crazy Gang have beaten the Culture Club.” Wimbledon had been a semi-professional club up until 1977. Liverpool had won the league in a convincing manner during the season.

This years final has the potential to create another piece of giant-killing. Manchester City will play Wigan Athletic. City are one of the richest clubs in the world while Wigan continually struggle to stay in the Premier League.