Day 13, 20 September – The Longest Day

Waking up at 5am while holiday seems a hardship but it was necessary as my coach to Belgrade leaves an hour later. Back in the UK I am used to coach drivers wearing uniforms. The drivers on this coach looked like they had come from the film Taken.

I used the journey to catch up on some sleep. It was not spectacular, the highlight being the border crossing from Bosnia into Serbia. These were the first stamps in my current passport.

Stamp Collecting

I arrived into Belgrade around lunchtime and I had no Serbian money and I could find a ATM. So I was going to have to find my way to the hostel by foot. Despite turning down the offer of a taxi, the driver was kind enough to point me in the right direction. The day was hot and I felt it while struggling with my backpack. Eventually I arrived at the hostel. I slept some more. It was a good opportunity as it was quiet.

When I awoke there was more life around. After doing some laundry and a shower I was feeling hungry. Fortunately others in the hostel were feeling the same. The hostel recommended a restaurant which was over the road. Serving typical Serbian fare I was sorted. However, they struggled to cope with the vegan in the group. She was happy to accept stuffed mushrooms. It is the tradition in Serbia to finish your meal off with a shot of Rakia. Expecting a small shot I was handed what looked like a small test tube with wings. I embarrassed myself by not being able to down it in one. It was only later that I was told I was drinking it correctly.

After the meal we headed over the road to a typical Belgrade bar which we were told to check out. This was very much a local hangout. It was lively as well as packed out. There was a great atmosphere with a band playing traditional folk songs. Everybody was getting ready for the night out. For me, the day had caught up with me. I needed my bed. (Must be my age.)

Until the next post stay safe, stay healthy and keep smiling.

Steve

 

Day 11, 18 September – Everything Comes Together

This morning the weather looked more promising, time to explore Sarajevo properly. After a good breakfast in the hostel I made my way towards the historic centre.

My first stop was the Gallery 11/07/95. It is dedicated to Sebrenica massacre. I found this to me moving. The gallery tells the story of the events leading up to the massacre and why it happened. Watching the film I ended up feeling ashamed that the Western powers did not do more to stop this. It was clear what the Serbs wanted to do. Mladic even said that the Muslims were going to pay. The most heartbeaking moment was the scene where a woman was told that they were 99.994% sure they had found her husband's remains. A Japanese girl who was also watching just broke down in tears.

Moving on to the Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque I needed to reflect on what I had seen. I could do with cheering up. At this point I bumped into Timo and Ahmed who I had met in Mostar. Ahmed is a bit of a legend as he had jumped the bridge in Mostar. He mentioned that others from the hostel had made their way to Sarajevo. Feeling somewhat better I decided to explore the city further by walking round in a circuit. I was not paying too much attention on where I was going. I was just happy to be ambling around.

Yesterday the bad weather had prevented me from joining the free walking tour. As the weather was better I thought I'd best check it out. As usual I was there too early but I did not mind. While waiting I saw a couple of familar looking figures. It was the German couple from Mostar. They introduced me to Ryan from Northern Ireland. While waiting more familar faces appeared. These were the girls from Ireland. We caught up with each other while we were on the tour. One of the girls had received some good about passing her law exams. So a night out was agreed.

Back at the hostel I bumped into another person I met in Mostar. She was from Korea. Today was getting better. While waiting to leave the hostel we starting talking to a couple of guys from France. We were getting on well and they started to share the red wine with us. It went down well so we asked them to join us on the night out and they accepted.

We all met up at the girl's hostel. It had a bar which we could use. Sadly, it had ran out of beer so we ended up drinking white wine and rakia. I am sure that this is not going to do me any good at all.

We made our way to the Hacienda Bar where we met up with Timo and Ahmed. It was too crowded so we went to the Blues Bar. This was more like it. Live music and a great atmosphere, what more could a man ask for in life? Drank too much and after a bite to eat staggered back to the hostel.

Until the next post stay safe, stay healthy and keep smiling.

Steve

 

Balkans Day 5, 12 September – Maybe I Should Say No More

Today I felt like a real traveller as I was leaving for Dubrovnik. I had enjoyed my time in Split and the hostel. I felt sad not being able to say goodbye to Josko. Having arrived at the coach station I was greeted by a scene of organised chaos. So many people looking to leave by coach. Got on my coach though was shocked to having to pay to put my luggage in the hold.

The journey itself started with no problems. However, by the afternoon the weather had turned. I could see the lightning hovering above the coach and soon after the heavens opened. I had not seen rain like this in a long while. It was that bad the local police closed the main road and the coach was diverted through a single track village. This delayed the coach. I arrived into Dubrovnik nearly two hours late. The journey though did have some highlights, namely the stunning views when the weather was good.

View from the coach

When I arrived into the hostel I think Neno the owner was a little annoyed with me arriving so late. However, he did not show it. The hostel itself was underground which meant it felt cool and it was only about 200 metres from the old town.

I went into the old town for a bite to eat. Back at the hostel I was enjoying the company of the the other travellers. We were listening to music and playing games. It was like the United Nations with America, Belgium, UK, Germany and Uruguay being represented. I was enjoying myself. This is why against my better judgement I was persuaded to go clubbing. It was an experience that ultimately left me cold. The night had started out alright. We were drinking in the Irish bars. I noticed that the menu in one bar was offering Chicken Nuggets. In a town full of restaurants they appeared not to be trying.

The night started to turn with the introduction of vodka. One of the party had smuggled in a bottle and proceeded to empty into our glasses. Fortunately someone brought some 7up to dilute the taste. We made our way to the nightclub. There one of the party (not me) seemed to lose control of themself. The atmosphere inside the club did not feel right. I was glad to leave.

Until the next post stay safe, stay healthy and keep smiling.

Steve

 

Photo of the Week – Lunch in Budapest

There is nothing better to do after a walking tour than eat some good food in a local restaurant. This was certainly the case in Budapest.

Like the idiot I am I have forgotten the name of the restaurant. All I can tell you is that it is on the top of Castle Hill in Buda. The meal itself was delicious. It consisted of pork, potatoes and red cabbage and washed down with a bottle of the local brew. Even better it was spent with good company with some of the people from the walk.

Until the next post stay safe, stay healthy and keep smiling.

Steve

 

I am 1

Yesterday, WordPress sent me a notification wishing me a happy blog anniversary. Happy Birthday to Midlifewanderlust1965, you have turned one. In truth I had forgotten about it thinking it was not due until May.

Still this should not stop me from feeling a little pleased with myself. I have managed to keep the blog going for twelve months without ever thinking about stopping. In that time I have managed to collect ninety five followers. I have also made three trip to Europe. They have made up a bulk of the posts on the blog.

Time goes by so quickly as it only seemed like yesterday since I made my first post. Now I want to the blog further forward. The next step is to purchase the domain name. I will have the flexibility to control and do more with the blog.

Finally I want to say thank you to everyone that has taken time out to view the blog in the last twelve months. I am truly grateful for your continued support.

Until the next post stay safe, stay healthy, keep smiling and raise a glass of beer in celebration.

Steve

 

Naschmarkt, Vienna

One of the most famous attractions in Vienna is the Naschmarkt.

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Originally established in the 16th Century it sold milk bottles.  In those days these bottles were made from Ash.  The German word for Ash is Asch and this is how it took on its name.  From the 18th Century it started to sell fruit and vegetables.  On Saturdays a flea market also takes place.  The market is both popular with both the local population and visitors.

What I liked about the market was the number of stores and the variety of goods sold. Many of the vendors were more than happy to offer samples for customers to try. Olives and vegetarian fritters were particularly popular during my visit.  One of my highlights was the unusual way a vendor sold vinegar.  You bring a bottle to fill with your favourite flavour.

The Vinegar Store
The Vinegar Store

I was lucky to visit on Saturday when the flea market was open.  There was a vibrant atmosphere in the market.  People were trying to sell whatever belonging they may have.  To be honest a lot of the stock was broken rubbish but that did not deter a lot of people looking and buying.  I spent a lot of time flicking through LP’s.  A reminder of my youth.  It is a good job I travel with a rucksack otherwise I might have been tempted to buy some.

The Flea Market at the Naschmarkt
The Flea Market at the Naschmarkt

The best time to visit is Saturday morning.  You get to experience the flea market and food stalls before it gets too busy.  There are plenty of bars and cafe to stop and eat. Even better if the weather is good, stock up on meat, cheese, bread and fruit and make your way to one of the parks and enjoy a picnic.

Until the next post, stay safe, stay healthy and keep smiling.

Steve

Vienna & Budapest – Days 10 & 11

Well the day has arrived, it is time to go home.  I worked out that I will be spending nearly 36 hours travelling before I arrived home.  This is going to take a lot out of me.  Spent my final morning in Budapest eating breakfast, shopping for supplies and chilling out making sure my gadgets were fully charged.

At around 12pm it was time to go.  The sun was shining and I was expecting no problems travelling today.  I made my way to the coach station.  Once there I thought I better make sure that the coaches to Vienna were running today.  To my horror they had all been cancelled and if I wanted to travel then I would have to make my way to the railway station.  When I asked about where I could find the railway station the reply was they did not know.  I stunned at the apparent lack of help towards my situation.  Next, I asked at the information desk.  Again, they appeared reluctant to help.  Eventually they produced a metro map with the stop for the railway station marked out.  I only hope that I had enough money for a ticket otherwise I would be stuck.

Getting to the railway station was easy enough I just had to find the ticket office.  I was relieved to find out that I could purchase a ticket.  Must remember not to judge other countries railways by the UK’s.  A train was about to leave the station.  I managed to board it and as I was storing my rucksack the train pulled out of Budapest.  At last I was on the road and would be in Vienna with time to spare.

I arrived into Vienna Westbanhof Station later in the afternoon.  The best thing for me was to make my way to the coach station and check to see if the coach to London was running.  After initially scaring me the staff confirmed that my coach was running.  I explained the situation with the coaches to Vienna and the kindly refunded half my coach fare.  As I had plenty of time to spare before I left Vienna I caught the U-bahn to St. Stephen’s Cathedral for one last look.  Took the time to enjoy a Bratwurst and take one last photo.

Final photo of St Stephen's Cathedral
Final photo of St Stephen’s Cathedral

Finally the time to leave Vienna had arrived and the coach pulled out of the station.  My heart felt heavy and sad.  To comfort myself I listened to some comedy on the i-pod and started to read up on the places I would be visiting in September.  Always have something to look forward to.

The coach journey itself was unspectacular and I slept through a lot of it.  I did arrive back into London almost an hour earlier than expected.  Took the opportunity to have something hot to eat before boarding the coach back to Birmingham.  I had forgotten that today was St. Patrick’s Day.  As soon as I arrived back in Birmingham I was confronted with the sight of drunken people who were looking for a fight.  During my trip I had not witnessed any anti-social behaviour.  Was I glad to be home?

Until the next post stay safe, stay healthy and keep smiling.

Steve

Vienna & Budapest – Day 9, 15 March 2013

It is time to leave Budapest today.  Sadness is filling up my heart as it is the start of my journey home.  I will spend a night in Vienna before I finally leave for home.

I checked out on time and thanked the hostel for a wonderful experience.  This has been one of the best hostels I have stayed in.  As I left I noticed that it had snowed during the night and left quite a covering.  Today is also a national holiday in Hungary celebrating the 1848 revolution so everything seemed quite but there were plenty of flags flying about.

I arrived at the coach station and everything seemed alright.  There were people waiting for their coach.  There was also a reporter and camera crew from the local TV station.  I was hoping that they might ask me for an interview.  Sadly, my quest for stardom was thwarted.

I had began to wonder why there was no information about coaches to Vienna.  So I went up to the ticket office and ask about the check-in times.  It was there I was told that all coaches to Vienna had been cancelled for the day and I would need to make my way to the railway station.  Taking this news in I was a little concerned on what I was going to do next.  Being stuck in Budapest was not the worst situation to be in.  After weighing up my options I decided it would be best to stay in Budapest for an extra day.  After getting my ticket changed free of charge I went back to the hostel to see if I could book another night there.  To my relief there was still room and at €10 it worked out cheaper than staying in Vienna.

After spending a couple of hours in the hostel I checked in.  This was my opportunity to explore Buda which I missed out on the previous day.  It was cold outside and being a public holiday there were not many people outside.  Staying in the warm and drinking Pilinka was a better idea.  I did get the chance to explore Buda.  It just felt strange not seeing people about on a Friday afternoon.  Normally, I would be working public holidays back home.

View of the Parliament Building from Buda.
View of the Parliament Building from Buda.

I treated myself to a warming cup of coffee and a large slice of chocolate cake.  From there I made my way back to the hostel.  This was my chance to do some washing.  It will save me from doing it when I got home.  I spent the evening relaxing in the bar with a couple of beers before going to bed.  Despite what happened today I considered it a plus.  Staying in Budapest was a bonus as I had become rather fond of the city.  Also the next two days were going to be spent on the road.

Until the next post stay safe, stay healthy and keep smiling.

Steve

Photo of the Week – Inside the Hütte Cafe

This week’s photo was taken inside the Hütte Cafe in Budapest.

IMG_0534

A popular attraction in Budapest it is unusual because it is housed inside a bubble.  It felt surreal.

Until the next post stay safe, stay healthy and keep smiling.

Steve

Vienna & Budapest – Day 7, 13 March 2013

After such a good day yesterday I wondered if today could match it.  We all agreed that we would meet up in the hostel reception before going somewhere else for breakfast.  Myself and Marion were there on time but no Ceylan.  Neither of us could remember her room number so Marion asked reception and to my amazement they gave it to her.  Ceylan was still asleep but said she would meet us over the road.

It is good to have something else to eat for breakfast than cereal and cold meat.  The ham and eggs tasted good.  Ceylan came over and we sat and planned our day ahead.  We were going to meet up with others from the walking tour at the Central Market Hall.

The Central Market Hall
The Central Market Hall

The weather felt colder today but was still acceptable.  Yet again I was offered a chance to purchase a Iphone.  Again I declined but I had heard that somebody had their phone stolen at the Szimpla Bar last night.

We met up with Bree and Martin.  It was a good opportunity to buy some souvenirs.  The prices seemed cheaper in here and I ended up buying some paprika.  Downstairs was home to the food section.  Ceylan and Marion suggested that we purchased some food to have for a picnic later.  I agreed that it was a good idea.  Upstairs was where you could purchase other souvenirs.  More importantly there were cafes and bars.  These were where the locals would meet up.  One piece of travel advice I always take is eat where the locals eat.  There was a wide range of food available to eat.  I chose to eat a langos.  It is sort of pizza base that can be eaten sweet or savoury.  Indulging my sweet tooth I chose to have mine with vanilla.  It was really filling and delicious.

Langos with Vanilla
Langos with Vanilla

We had to say goodbye to Bree who was leaving today.  Martin had also disappeared by then.  The rest of us agreed that we should aim for the Opera House.  The weather was improving so the walk was good.  We reached the Opera House but while we could go inside there were no tours until further in the afternoon.

Inside the Opera House
Inside the Opera House

The one place we wanted to visit was the House of Terror.  It is a museum that was once the headquarters of both the Hungarian Nazis and Communists.  Before you enter the museum you see photos of the people who were executed during the period.  It is a chilling place to visit.  The fact that nobody said anything during the visit was enough for me.

House of Terror
House of Terror

After a cup of coffee our spirits returned and we made our way towards Heroes’ Square.  This was an impressive place to see.  There were not many people there but I could imagine during the summer would be full of people.  To the back of the square there is a small park, an ideal spot to have a picnic.  I had brought myself some smoked sausage, ham, pork and some fruit.  It was good to relax.  Eating al-fresco is something I could get used to.

My picnic
My picnic

In the evening Marion and I said we would meet up with Ceylan later.  We had gone to the Kiedo bar and restaurant for something to eat.  It was full, that is always a good sign.  We both chose Goulash soup followed by Duck Breast with Honey Mustard Gnocchi. I love it but Marion could not finish hers.  As usual I washed it down with beer.

Duck Breast with Honey Mustard Gnocchi
Duck Breast with Honey Mustard Gnocchi

We met up with Ceylan at the Instants Ruin Bar.  An unusual place you could not enter until you had to pay to leave your coat in the cloakroom.  Back home it is optional and you take it into the bar at your own risk.  Ceylan brought along a friend she had met.  I think his name was Alex.  He was a good laugh.  I enjoyed the night again.  There was a little sadness in the air as it was Ceylan’s last night in Budapest.  Tomorrow she leaves for Vienna.  I hope she wakes up in time.

Until the next post, stay safe, stay healthy and keep smiling.

Steve

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